The Danube by Bike - Passau to Vienna 2009
In 2009 we decided we fancied the idea of a cycling holiday. The previous year we had toyed with the idea of some downhill biking in the Alps. Having seen that the skiing lifts were also used during the summer to transport mountain bikers it looked like a good idea to take a cycling holiday without the hassle of going uphill. Investigations revealed that these tend to be frequented by the extreme enthusiasts rather than the family type of holiday we were looking for.
A friend suggested following the river Danube as an alternative and the idea was sown. As it turns out the Danube cycle path is one of the most popular in Europe and, as we were to find out, with good reason. There are numerous options and routes available from self planned to fully packaged deals. With two adults and two teenage daughters to take into consideration the decision process became fairly straightforward as the teenagers were adamant that despite having many years of enjoyable camping trips under their belt, they weren't coming if camping was involved in any way shape or form.
A trawl of the internet found several companies that provided a package combining hotels and luggage transport between stops as well as bike hire and various other included extras. We eventually decided on an Austrian company called Rad & Reisen who are not well known in the UK but are one of Europes leading bike tour companies.
The package was a 7 day tour from Passau to Vienna , half board and bike rental with return train fare included, bikes are left at Vienna. We had to arrange flights and organise transfers to and from the Munich airport. For Munich to Passau, Rad & Reisen supplied the transfer for £49pp (which was a little expensive I thought).
The return seemed very complicated with a 4 hour train from Vienna to Passau then an onward transfer to Munich at £49 each. Filght times didn't match well and it would mean an extra night in Passau to make the connection. The obvious option was to fly from Vienna to back to the UK, but this didn't work either. Eventually we managed to find a one way early morning flight Vienna to Munich which only gave us a couple of hours wait at Munich to catch our return flight to the UK. Unbelievably the flights were priced at only 6 Euros! So we opted for an extra night in Vienna to enable us to look around the city.
Day 1
The flight out to Munich was pretty much a standard Easyjet affair. Queue to book in, then the mad rush as everyone jostles to find a seat they like on the airplane. Arrival at Munich was simple, customs was non existent and we trundled out of arrivals expecting to see someone holding up a piece of paper with our name on it. Waited a few minutes, still no-one. No worries, Rad & Reisen had told us to go to the yellow transfers area if we had any problems. Off to the nearby information kiosk. In my bestest broken German, “wo ist das yellow transfer area bitte.” “We don't have a yellow transfer area” was the reply. My heart sank. All that money paid over the internet to a scam website and we're stuck in Munich airport with nowhere to go. At that moment, a booming voice came over the tannoy system, “Vood ze family More make zer way to ze transfers area at ze zentrum to pick up ze transfer to Passau.”. So vee we trundled off to the central area to find there was indeed a yellow transfers desk at which our taxi drivers were patiently awaiting our arrival.
The transfer to Passau took about an hour and a half and we arrived at the hotel Achat at around 2.30pm. At the hotel reception we were greeted by the very helpful receptionist who supplied us with our information packs, guide book and most importantly a booklet containing our hotel, rental hire and ferry tickets as well as slips for other freebies. Bags needed to be in hotel receptions before 8.30am and tickets were supplied for these transfers. Also supplied was an handlebar bag and detailed route book. The handlebar bag contained a clear pouch on the top under which the route book fitted perfectly. The paperwork had been supplied in a purpose made heavy duty resealable plastic bag, which seem a little over the top. It is fair to say that the organisation of the trip throughout the whole week was faultless and highly efficient.
We were due to start cycling the following day , however, it became clear some pre-planning was necessary as day one started with a downstream ferry ride from Passau to Scholgen (some 46km) and we then had 52km to cycle on to Linz. The cycle hire shop opened at 8.00am and we had to locate, get our tickets and be on the ferry by 8.45am. During the afternoon we walked into Passau and located the hire shop and ferry terminal (no 11, yes 11!) and also wandered around the beautiful town centre and small streets located on the peninsula that is formed by the meeting of the rivers Danube and Inn.
Day 2 - Passau to Linz (98km – 52km by bike)
Greeted by a warm sunny mid August day. Occasional clouds kept the temperature down to a reasonable level. The bike hire shop was quick and efficient and they supplied us each (there were 9 in our party) with 21 speed 'sit up and beg' style bikes, we handed in our little blue slips and trundled off with nine bikes. We do have mountain bikes at home but had decided to hire rather than take our own. This was a wise decision as the hire bikes are designed for the terrain with high handlebars, big soft seats and panniers. Panniers are optional and I decided against thinking my handlebar bag was enough, unlike my wife. Big mistake which I regretted each day. It is amazing just how many bottles you can get in one of those panniers.
A quick downhill cycle and we make our way to the ferry terminal, another blue slip and we are aboard, bikes stowed in what appears to be a restaurant area below deck. Up on deck we sit and enjoy the gentle cruise along the greeny gray Danube amongst steep wooded valleys. By around 11.00am we have reached our destination at Schlogen and onto the radweg (cycleway) proper. The cyclepath is only on the right bank here and we make our way around 20km to Kaiser where we stop for lunch at a restaurant by a campsite. The restaurant here seemed fairly empty and was only interested in serving full sit down meals, we only wanted snacks so we found our food was pretty poor and disappointing.
Another 8km sees us at Aschach where we stock up our panniers with water and supplies. Cross over the bridge here and onto the left bank which we follow all the way to Linz. The final section of the route here runs alongside the busy road into Linz and was perhaps the least endearing section. Entering Linz we follow the well marked route across the bridge and into the city centre. Linz is without doubt a beautiful city. We only visited the centre of the city but were left with the impression of an affluent, vibrant and lively city and a place we would be happy to stay a little longer in, if we had the time.
As part of the preparation for the trip I had printed off street maps of each hotel along our route. These proved an invaluable aid in locating our hotels at each stopover. Rad & Reisen had supplied written directions for the hotel locations but we found the maps were much easier to follow. We cycled through the city and by around 5pm we found our way to our hotel. It felt a little uneasy booking in at the smart hotel desk in a somewhat sweaty, dirty and dishevelled state but the receptionists are pretty much used to it and by the end of the week we were used to it too! Worryingly our bags had not arrived, but the reception advised us not to worry and they should arrive in around half an hour. True to their word the bags arrived. That evening our half board option took us to a superb high quality restaurant just around the corner from the hotel. The meal was superb and we thoroughly enjoyed the meal and topped the evening off with a walk through the town with the evening lights.
Day 3 - Linz to Grein (59km)
We woke to cloudy conditions outside and hobbled down to the breakfast room a little stiff. If there is one thing the Europeans are good at it is breakfasts! Every day we were treated to a huge, no vast, spread of any and all possible combinations of fruits, juices, cereals, breads, cheeses, yoghurts, eggs, cakes, teas,coffees.... endless. Eat as much as you like. Sadly being used to a single slice of toast and a cup of tea for breakfast it took a few days to adjust to the continental way.
By the time we had sorted ourselves out and mounted our bikes the weather had changed to rain. We donned our high performance breathable outer shells (I hate the word pacamac) and set off regardless but only got as far as the bridge across the river before it turned torrential. We sheltered under the arches until it died off a little. It looked as if it was going to be one miserable day. The rain gradually died away over the next hour and we soon dried out and were back in tee shirts by midday. We took the left bank to Abwinden power station taking the right bank to the small cycle ferry to Mathausen and from here the left bank to Grein. We lunched at a small cake shop in Mathausen. Sausages and mustard! I would have liked to visit the concentration camp here but nearly 60km to cover today the 6km diversion would have made the day too long.
At this point I found out just why the documentation had been supplied in a purpose made heavy duty resealable plastic bag. The rain had worked its way into the handlebar bag and most of my paperwork was now rather soggy! Fortunately my book of tickets had been protected by the plastic bag. The damp even penetrated the map in the top pocket which meant the pages were starting to return to their original pulp like state.
Grein is the most delightful little town and perhaps my most favourite place of the trip. The small but perfectly formed town square hosts a delight of bars, bakeries and eating places. There seemed to be a sleepy non-urgent atmosphere here that made the place feel totally relaxing. Our destination here was the Pension Faltinger which made a refreshing change from the hotels of the previous two nights. Our evening meal was at The Golden Krone in the town square and was a truly scrumptious affair with the most friendly staff you could imagine. I struggle to get to sleep as both my knees feel as if they have red hot pokers in them!
Day 4 - Grein to Melk (48km)
Breakfast was the usual, but obviously slightly slimmed down version, of meats, cheeses, cereals etc. Breakfast was interrupted by our hosts handing me a telephone, rather puzzled I answered it to find it was Rad & Reisen just calling to make sure our holiday was going as planned. I advised them we were indeed having a great time, all was well and how I was impressed at the planning and organisation they had done. Jokingly I said everything was fine apart from the weather which had been poor the previous day and could they organise some better weather, we both laughed and hung up. I know this is probably difficult to believe, but less than 15 seconds from putting the phone down the sun suddenly started shining brightly through the breakfast room window! The rest of the week the weather just got hotter and hotter each day.
Off for another day, we called in at the local Spar shop and filled our panniers with drinks and food for a picnic lunch today. The route started today by catching the bicycle ferry across to the right bank to Persenbeug where we would take the left bank to Klein-Pochlarn and then the right bank again to Melk.
We arrive in Melk around mid afternoon and after freshening up in the hotel we wander up to the abbey. Sadly we arrive too late to get into the abbey so spend some time in the ornamental gardens next to the abbey. Obviously a major tourist town many different countries seem represented in the crowds, American, Australian and Japanese being the most abundant. Dinner is in the hotel this evening and turns out to be fairly standard fare.
Day 5 - Melk to Krems (36km)
Today is one of the easier days with only 36km to cover we decide to take it easier and more relaxed. The weather is now very hot and sunny and it is necessary to keep moving in order to keep cool. This section is perhaps the prettiest of the route so far as we pass through the vineyards and small villages of the Wachau region. We take the left bank all the way to Krems. At Willendorf we take time out to visit the site of the discovery of the Venus of Willendorf, a 24,000 year old carving found here in 1908. The site is still under investigation.
At the quaint (and busy) town of Durnstein we visit the Domain Wachau and pick up our complimentary (half) bottles of wine and make the final 5km to the hotel by late afternoon. The hotel in Krems is probably the poorest so far and the evening meal was a buffet help yourself affair and of pretty mediocre quality.
Day 6 - Krems to Vienna (44km by bike, 40km by train)
Last day biking. Breakfast is the usual unlimited feast. Extremely hot today and we set off apace to get to Tulln via the right bank where we need to pick up a train to get us into Vienna. It is essential to keep moving as the heat is now starting to slow the pace down and stops need to be made in the shade. We reach Tulln around 1.30pm and head straight for the Bahnhof. Tulln appears to be a beautiful town where gardens and sculptures abound. It would have been nice to spend a extra day here. Late afternoon sees us in the city of Vienna trying to navigate our way to the hotel which is next to the Prater park. Vienna is extremely bike friendly and we have very little trouble finding our way to the hotel using the bike lanes and pathways. Fortunately the hotel is ultra modern and rooms are air conditioned as the temperature is now in the thirtys. The heat has overtaken me now, exhausted I hit the bed on arrival and am unable to get up for the evening meal.
Day 7 - Vienna
No more biking! The hotel is next to the underground so we buy a day ticket (E5.70) and head off into the city to explore. First we take an hour trip on an air conditioned sightseeing bus which gives us an overall view of this impressive city. We decide to head to the museums quarter to visit a museum, but find the major ones closed with it being Monday. The Leopold museum is open so we end up visiting this. We find it somewhat disappointing. Even the Klimt on display fails to impress. So we hit the underground and head of to St Stephens Square and wander around the city here. We find a seriously yummy ice cream shop and sit beneath a statue of Gutenburg enjoying our last few hours in Austria. After dinner we visit the Prater park where the Viennese giant wheel is to be found along with many other rides and attractions which keep us all amused and happy until the late hours (or rather till our money ran out).
Overall
An excellent holiday experience that was organised with precision and care by Rad & Reisen. The route was mainly flat and there was no great effort required to perform each leg. The youngest in our party was 8 years old and she had little trouble keeping up with the adults. The hotels were of good quality and the breakfasts exceptional. Our half board option varied in quality from extremely good to average, but on balance it was perfectly adequate and without any problems or complaints. The only criticism i would give is the route was too quick. This was our fault rather than the tour company and if we were to do the route again it would be over two weeks rather than one as we did not visit as many of the sights as we would have liked to.
